Althea

Hibiscus syriacus

OutdoorsFamily: Malvaceae (Malvacées)Difficulty: Easy

Althea (Hibiscus syriacus) is a hardy deciduous garden shrub, not to be confused with the indoor hibiscus with tropical flowers that people grow in pots all year round. This one stays outdoors summer and winter, comes through our winters without any trouble once established, and rewards you at the end of summer with a precious display of flowers, right when most other shrubs have already finished theirs.

Light and exposure

Althea wants as much sun as possible. A south or south-west facing spot, sheltered from cold, drying winds, gives the most generous flowering. In part shade it still grows and flowers, but less abundantly and with a shape that tends to stretch towards the light.

In the Herve region, where summers can stay cool and windy, a spot against a wall or in a sheltered corner of the garden makes a real difference to how many flowers you get. Avoid low spots where cold air pools in spring, since that only delays a leafing out that is already late.

Watering

Once well rooted, after two or three years in the ground, althea copes well with dry spells and needs no special watering. Young plants, on the other hand, need regular watering in the first and second year, while the roots settle in deep.

The point to watch is flowering. A summer that is too dry, with no watering at all, often makes the flower buds drop before they even open. A generous watering once a week during prolonged dry spells, from July to September, keeps the flowering going.

Soil and repotting

Althea is not fussy and is happy in ordinary garden soil, as long as it drains well. A little compost at planting helps young plants get off to a good start, but no further feeding is really needed after that.

The real weak point is too much water in winter. In heavy clay soil that stays waterlogged for weeks, the roots eventually rot. In poor, chalky soil, chlorosis can appear, with leaves turning yellow between veins that stay green, a dose of compost or iron usually fixes it.

Temperature and humidity

Althea is perfectly hardy here, coping without any damage with cold down to minus fifteen to minus twenty degrees once well established. It is a shrub built for our winters, unlike its indoor cousin, which cannot take any frost at all.

What often surprises gardeners in the region is how slow it is to start in spring. Even in a mild year, it keeps its branches bare long after every other shrub in the garden, sometimes right into May. That is not a sign of poor health, it is simply its nature, and you have to resist the urge to dig it out too soon.

Pruning and upkeep

Althea flowers on the current year’s wood, meaning on the shoots that grow during spring and summer. Pruning in late winter, in February or March, before the leaves come out, encourages vigorous regrowth and more, larger flowers in the growing season.

Cut back last year’s shoots by a third to half their length, just above a bud. This pruning is not compulsory, an unpruned althea still flowers, but it genuinely changes how generous the summer flowering is.

Pests and diseases

Althea is a generally healthy shrub that rarely causes real problems. Black aphids are the most common issue, settling in colonies on young shoots and flower buds in spring and early summer. A firm jet of water or some soft soap usually gets rid of them.

On poor, chalky soil, watch for chlorosis, yellow leaves with green veins. And if flower buds drop without opening in high summer, that is not a disease but a sign of too little water, corrected by watering more generously during dry spells.

Propagation

Taking cuttings is the most reliable way to get an althea identical to the parent plant. Take semi-ripe cuttings in July or August, from this year’s shoots that have already firmed up a little at the base, and root them in a light mix, in the shade.

Growing from seed is possible but really for the curious, since flowering only starts after several years and the flowers you get do not always match the parent plant, as garden varieties are often hybrids. Layering, bending a low branch down into the soil until it roots, also works well.

Local know-how

In Belgium (Herve climate, zone 8a)

In the Herve region, in zone 8a, althea is a thoroughly hardy shrub. Once established for two or three years, it comes through our winters with no special protection at all and copes without any trouble with the hardest frosts we get here.

There are two things worth knowing about it in our climate. First, it leafs out very late in spring, often only in May or June, when every other shrub in the garden has long been covered in leaves, and many gardeners dig it out by mistake, thinking it is dead, when faced with those still bare branches, when really you just need to be patient. Second, its flowering comes late, from July to October, which makes it a precious shrub at the end of the season, when most other shrubs have already finished theirs. To make the most of this flowering in our sometimes cool climate, plant it in full sun and sheltered from the wind, against a wall or among other shrubs that give it some protection.

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Month-by-month care calendar

JanuaryComplete rest. The shrub is bare and shows no sign of life, which is entirely normal in the depths of winter. Use this time to plan a sunny spot if you are thinking of planting a new one.
FebruaryThe last few weeks before leafing out. This is a good time to prune last year’s shoots, before the sap rises again, to encourage a more generous flowering this summer.
MarchStill no leaves, no need to worry. Althea remains one of the last shrubs to come out of dormancy, well after the others.
AprilThe branches are often still bare while the rest of the garden turns green. This is the shrub’s most characteristic trait, patience is the order of the day.
MayLeafing out finally arrives, the first leaves appear. Once it gets going, growth quickly makes up for lost time.
JuneThe foliage fills out fully. Water young plants put in recently if the weather turns dry, established plants manage on their own.
JulyThe first flowers open, marking the start of a long flowering season. Watch for aphids, which like to settle on the still closed buds.
AugustFlowering is in full swing. During a heatwave or prolonged dry spell, a weekly watering stops the buds dropping before they open.
SeptemberAlthea keeps flowering generously, while most other shrubs in the garden have already finished their season.
OctoberThe last flowers still open in fine weather. Althea remains one of the latest shrubs to flower in our gardens.
NovemberThe leaves turn yellow and drop, the shrub starts to go bare. Mulch around young plants before the first hard frosts.
DecemberComplete winter rest. The bare shrub copes with the cold with no trouble, keep in mind the pruning to do in February.

Green Hub tips

  • Never worry about seeing althea bare in April or early May, it is the last shrub in the garden to leaf out, it always gets there in the end.
  • Prune in February or March, before it leafs out, althea flowers on the current year’s wood and regular pruning gives more and bigger flowers.
  • Water generously during dry summers, especially at the height of flowering, otherwise the buds drop before they even open.
  • Plant it in full sun and sheltered from the wind to make the most of its late flowering, from July to October, when the rest of the garden is already done.