Begonia
Begonia
Begonia is the star summer flower of Belgian window boxes, hanging baskets and shady borders. Hundreds of hybrids exist, but two main groups dominate our gardens: the garden begonia, with small single flowers and often bronze foliage, and the tuberous begonia, with spectacular double blooms. The latter has a particularly strong Belgian pedigree: the region around Ghent, Lochristi above all, has been the world’s leading production centre for tuberous begonias for more than a century, a local horticultural point of pride that gives the town its famous flower parade.
Light and exposure
Begonia likes light but dislikes scorching afternoon sun, which burns the petals and browns the foliage, especially on the large-flowered tuberous varieties. A partly shaded spot, under a tree with light foliage, on an east-facing terrace or against a wall that only catches the morning sun, suits it beautifully.
The garden begonia, hardier by nature, copes with more sun under our often hazy skies, provided the soil never dries out completely. In full southern sun, keep that spot for well-watered bedding displays and save the shade for hanging baskets of tuberous begonias.
Watering
Begonia needs soil that stays consistently moist through the growing season, without ever becoming waterlogged. Water at the base and avoid wetting the flowers and foliage: standing moisture on the petals opens the door to grey mould, a real risk in our rainy summers.
In a pot or hanging basket, the compost dries out quickly once temperatures rise and can need watering every day in high summer. The opposite problem, too much water around the tuber, causes it to rot within days, the single most common cause of death for tuberous begonias.
Soil and repotting
A humus-rich, light and above all well-drained potting mix is essential. The heavy clay soils typical of the Herve region, which hold water through winter, need lightening with well-rotted compost and possibly some coarse sand before planting.
In a pot, always choose one with drainage holes and add a layer of clay pebbles or gravel at the bottom. A begonia left standing in waterlogged soil after rain will almost always develop tuber or crown rot.
Temperature and humidity
Begonia tolerates absolutely no frost, neither in the tuber nor in the foliage. Growth already slows below fifteen degrees and stops completely below ten.
In Belgium, tubers are only started outdoors and plants only moved into open ground after the ice saints, around mid-May, once the risk of a late frost has passed. In autumn the same rule works in reverse: at the first cold snap forecast, bring the plant in or lift it without delay, a single frosty night is enough to destroy both tuber and foliage.
Pruning and upkeep
Deadhead regularly: removing spent flowers is a simple habit that clearly extends flowering by stopping the plant from putting its energy into seed production. Pinch out the tips of young garden begonias too, to encourage a denser, bushier habit.
As the first frosts approach, cut the foliage back to a few centimetres above the ground before lifting the tubers. This trim makes drying and winter storage easier and lowers the risk of rot while the tubers are kept.
Pests and diseases
Powdery mildew, that floury white coating on the leaves, tends to appear in dry, still conditions when air does not circulate enough between plants. Grey mould, or botrytis, favours damp, cool weather, typical of Belgian summers, and attacks spent flowers left on the plant first.
Tuber rot, caused by standing water, remains the most serious problem because it is often irreversible. Slugs and snails happily go for the tender young shoots in spring, a ring of ash or a physical barrier keeps the damage down.
Propagation
Tuberous begonia divides easily at the tuber when growth restarts in spring: each piece needs at least one eye to sprout. The soft young shoots also root well from cuttings, either in water or straight into light, evenly moist compost.
Garden begonia is grown from tiny seed, sown on the surface from February under heated cover, since the seeds need light and steady warmth to germinate. It is a fiddly sowing job best left to patient gardeners, most people prefer to buy young plants or pre-started tubers instead.
Local know-how
In Belgium (Herve climate, zone 8a)
In Herve, zone 8a, begonia is entirely frost-tender: it tolerates no frost at all, neither as a tuber nor in leaf. Tubers are only started indoors from March, and plants or tubers only go into open ground after the ice saints, around mid-May, once the risk of a late frost has passed.
Belgium carries a particular horticultural point of pride with begonia: the region around Ghent, Lochristi above all, has been the world’s leading production centre for tuberous begonias for more than a century, exported worldwide and celebrated every year at Lochristi’s flower parade. Two main types share our gardens: the garden begonia, or semperflorens, with small single flowers and often bronze foliage, perfect for beds and borders, and the tuberous begonia, with spectacular large double blooms, king of hanging baskets and window boxes. The habit that makes all the difference here is overwintering: before the first autumn frosts, lift the tubers, let them dry, then store them somewhere dry and frost-free, in peat or sand, at around ten degrees, ready to start again the following year.
Growing begonia?
Green Hub keeps a dated history of your own plant: its photos, its progress, its repottings. An AI answers about yours specifically, not a generic sheet, for free.
Identify my plantMonth-by-month care calendar
| January | Complete rest. The tubers sleep dry in their crate of peat or sand, kept frost-free. Check them once and discard any showing signs of rot. |
|---|---|
| February | Still dormant. This is the time to order new tubers and choose varieties for the season, from compact garden begonias to large-flowered tuberous types. |
| March | Take the tubers out of storage and start them indoors, warm and bright, in light compost kept just barely moist. The first shoots appear within a few weeks. |
| April | Growth continues under cover. Plants develop well, but it can still freeze here, so nothing goes into open ground before mid-May. |
| May | Harden the plants off gradually. Plant out and move pots outside only after mid-May, once the ice saints have passed. |
| June | Full growth and the first flowers. Water regularly at the base and remove the first faded blooms to keep new ones coming. |
| July | Generous flowering. Watch pot watering closely, daily in hot spells. Keep deadheading. |
| August | Flowering is at its peak. Give beds some air in humid weather to hold off powdery mildew and grey mould, and watch for slugs on young shoots. |
| September | Flowering carries on but eases off gently. Watch the forecast for early morning frost, the season is winding down for the tuberous types. |
| October | At the first cold snap forecast, cut back the foliage and lift the tubers before a frost destroys them. Let them dry for a few days somewhere sheltered. |
| November | Store the well-dried tubers in peat or sand, somewhere dry and frost-free, at around ten degrees. Garden begonias, being annuals, cannot be kept over winter. |
| December | Give the storage a final check before deep winter sets in. Remove any soft or blemished tuber before it spreads to the rest. |
Green Hub tips
- Never plant or move begonia outside before mid-May in Belgium. A tuber or young plant caught by a late ice-saints frost will not recover.
- Lift the tubers before the first autumn frosts, let them dry, then store them somewhere dry and frost-free, in peat or sand, at around ten degrees all winter.
- Choose light shade over scorching afternoon sun, especially for large-flowered tuberous begonias, which burn quickly in full south-facing sun.
- Deadhead every week. It is the simplest habit for keeping a begonia in flower from June right through to the first frosts.
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