Tarragon

Artemisia dracunculus

HerbsFamily: Asteraceae (Astéracées)Difficulty: Medium

Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) is an aromatic perennial with an aniseed scent, a cornerstone of French cooking. The variety you want, French tarragon, produces no viable seeds: it can only be propagated by root division or cuttings. In the Herve area, the plant tolerates cold but above all fears the dampness of our winters. It disappears completely above ground in winter and grows back from the crown in April.

Light and exposure

Tarragon wants full sun, at least six hours of direct sunlight. Give it the warmest, brightest spot in the vegetable garden. It is in the sun that it concentrates the essential oils responsible for its aniseed flavour; in the shade, it grows leggy, thins out and turns bland.

In a pot, choose a well exposed spot on the terrace. Growing in a pot has real value here: it lets you bring the plant into a dry, cold place for winter, sheltered from the rains that make it rot in open ground.

Watering

Tarragon copes poorly with excess water. Water moderately, only when the soil is dry on the surface, and always let the soil drain between two waterings. A plant settled in open ground usually makes do with rain once it is rooted; it tolerates drought well.

In a pot it is trickier because the substrate dries out fast in summer but holds water in autumn. Water at the base, never on the foliage, and always empty the saucer. A tarragon that yellows and goes soft at the base is almost always a tarragon watered too much, not too little.

Soil and repotting

The ideal soil is light, free draining and rather poor. Tarragon comes from the steppes, it hates heavy, clayey, waterlogged soils that rot its crown. If your soil is compact, lighten it with coarse sand and gravel, and plant on a small mound so the water drains away.

At planting, forget the generous compost: soil that is too rich gives soft foliage, less fragrant and more sensitive to cold. In a pot, mix potting soil with a third of sand or perlite, over a good layer of clay pebbles. Plant a young plant bought in a small pot in spring, never a seedling from seed.

Temperature and humidity

French tarragon is semi hardy here. It takes frost without any problem once dormant, but it is winter dampness that kills it, not dry cold. A mild, rainy winter such as we often have in the Herve area is more fatal to it than a good frost on well drained soil.

The critical point is therefore drainage combined with mulch. In November, earth up and mulch the plant generously with dead leaves or dry straw to keep the crown warm and dry. On heavy soil or during a harsh winter, it is better to bring the pot into a cold, dry, frost free room rather than risk losing the plant.

Pruning and upkeep

Harvest the stems regularly from May to September: this stimulates regrowth and keeps the clump compact. Cut above a leaf, take what you need and do not wait for flowering, which weakens the scent. French tarragon flowers little and its flowers come to nothing anyway.

At the end of the season, when the aerial part dries and turns brown, cut the dead stems back to ground level before mulching. In spring, a light clean up is enough to let the new shoots come through. An important point for the plant’s longevity: divide the crown every three years, because the clump exhausts itself and becomes woody at the centre.

Pests and diseases

Tarragon is tough, its troubles almost all come from dampness. Root and crown rot is the real risk in our climate: on heavy or overwatered soil, the crown blackens and goes soft, often in autumn or coming out of winter. Rust, a fungus that marks the underside of the leaves with orange pustules, appears in mild, damp weather, especially on crowded, poorly aired plants.

Prevention comes down to three actions: free draining soil, measured watering at the base, and enough spacing for air to circulate. As for pests, slugs nibble the tender young shoots in spring, and aphids may settle on the stems in summer; a jet of water or black soap deals with them.

Propagation

Remember first what does not work: sowing from seed. French tarragon produces no viable seeds. The packets of tarragon seeds sold in shops are Russian tarragon, another plant, hardier but completely without flavour in cooking. This is the classic trap; always buy a young plant in a small pot, never seeds.

Real propagation is done by root division, in spring or early autumn: dig up the clump, split it into pieces bearing roots and replant at once. This is also the action that regenerates an old plant. Taking stem cuttings in summer, in a sandy mix kept barely moist, also works and gives new plants true to the mother plant.

Local know-how

In Belgium (Herve climate, zone 8a)

In the Herve area, French tarragon overwinters outdoors on two conditions: soil that drains and mulch at the base. Cold does not kill it, it is the water stagnating around the crown during our long rainy winters that makes it rot. On heavy, damp soil, the plant often disappears for good between December and March, without anyone understanding why.

Two traps lie in wait here. The first is buying seeds: it will be Russian tarragon, flavourless, a guaranteed disappointment. Get a young plant of French tarragon in a small pot, in spring, from a good garden centre. The second is losing the plant to excess winter dampness. The remedy comes down to three actions: drain the soil at planting, earth up and mulch the base generously in November, and on heavy soil or when a harsh winter is forecast, grow in a pot so you can bring the plant into a cold, dry room.

The Belgian cycle is easy to follow. The aerial part dries out and disappears in autumn, the plant grows back from the crown around April. Harvest runs from May to September. Every three years, divide the crown in spring to regenerate a clump that is starting to exhaust itself, and you will keep the same tarragon for years on end.

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Month-by-month care calendar

JanuaryNothing to do. The plant sleeps under its mulch, the aerial part has disappeared. Just check that water is not stagnating around the crown.
FebruaryWinter rest. If you have brought in a pot, keep it cold, dry and barely watered, in a frost free room.
MarchNothing grows yet but it is coming. Prepare the spot, lighten the soil with sand if it is heavy. This is the month to spot a good young plant in a small pot.
AprilRegrowth. The plant comes back from the crown. Remove the mulch, clean up the dead stems. Plant a new French tarragon plant bought in a small pot, never seeds.
MayThe clump fills out. Start harvesting the young shoots. You can divide an old crown to regenerate it and obtain new plants.
JuneFull growth. Harvest regularly, it stimulates regrowth. Water only in case of prolonged drought, at the base.
JulyGenerous harvest for the kitchen. You can take a few stem cuttings in a barely moist sandy mix. Watch out for slugs and aphids.
AugustThe harvest continues. Air out clumps that are too crowded to avoid rust in damp weather. Freeze or dry the surplus leaves.
SeptemberLast harvests. You can still divide a crown early in the month to give it time to root before winter.
OctoberThe plant slows down, the foliage starts to yellow. Space out the watering, let the crown go into dormancy naturally.
NovemberCut the dry stems back to ground level. Earth up and mulch the base generously with dead leaves or straw. On heavy soil, bring the pot into the dry.
DecemberFull dormancy. The plant is invisible above ground. Make sure the mulch stays in place and that water does not build up at the crown.

Green Hub tips

  • Never buy tarragon seeds: it will be Russian tarragon, flavourless. Get a French tarragon plant in a small pot, from a garden centre.
  • What kills tarragon in Belgium is water, not cold. Drain the soil and mulch the base in November to get it through winter.
  • Divide the crown every three years in spring. The clump exhausts itself and turns woody at the centre, division regenerates it and gives you new plants.
  • On heavy, damp soil, grow it in a pot: you will be able to bring it into the dry and cold in winter rather than risk losing the plant.