Privet

Ligustrum ovalifolium

OutdoorsFamily: Oleaceae (Oléacées)Difficulty: EasyToxicity: see below

Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium), often sold as California privet, is a shrub native to Japan that has become the most common hedge in Belgian gardens. In the Herve region it is the safe bet for the busy gardener or the tight budget: unfussy about soil, it grows fast, takes pruning without complaint and forms a dense screen within two or three years that blocks prying eyes and breaks the wind. In our climate it keeps much of its foliage through a mild winter and only drops it properly during a hard frost.

Light and exposure

Privet copes with any exposure, from full sun to partial shade under a large tree. That is exactly what makes it the go-to hedge in the Herve region, where a garden’s orientation is not always ideal: a north-facing bank, a back garden shaded by the neighbour’s house, a windy corridor between two buildings, privet takes it all in stride.

In full sun, growth is faster and the foliage denser from top to bottom. In shade, the hedge stays vigorous but fills out a little less at the base: prune it wider at the bottom than at the top so light reaches all the way down and no gaps appear.

Watering

Once well established, privet is happy with Belgian rainfall and needs almost no watering, even through the dry summers of recent years. That is one of its great strengths for anyone who does not fancy dragging a hose out every evening.

The first year follows a different rule: young bare-root or potted plants need generous, regular watering, especially in spring and through the months after planting, while the roots settle in deep. Mulching at the base cuts down evaporation and lets you water less often.

Soil and repotting

Privet grows in almost any soil, including the poor, stony or chalky ground often found on the higher parts of the Herve plateau. It even tolerates compacted soil beside a road and copes with pollution better than most evergreen hedges.

Its only real weak point is soil that stays waterlogged, where the roots eventually rot. In heavy clay ground, loosen the planting trench well and add sand or coarse grit to improve drainage before planting.

Temperature and humidity

California privet is semi-evergreen in our climate: it keeps much of its green foliage all winter during mild spells, giving the impression of a fully evergreen hedge. In a harder winter, with prolonged frost below minus five or minus ten degrees, it drops its leaves so it can come back all the stronger in spring.

This leaf drop in cold weather is never a sign of disease or a dying hedge, it is simply a defence reaction. It starts back up without trouble once the fine days return and regains its full density within a few weeks.

Pruning and upkeep

This is one of the fastest-growing hedges among those commonly planted in Belgium, up to sixty centimetres a year in good conditions, which calls for regular pruning to keep it neat. Plan on two to three trims between May and September: a shaping cut in late May or early June, a second in July or August, and a final one in September if growth keeps going.

Privet takes hard pruning very well and comes back without trouble from old wood, even when cut back to a few centimetres from the ground on a hedge that has become too sprawling or thin at the base. It is one of the few hedges you can completely restructure without risking losing it.

Pests and diseases

Privet is known for its toughness and stays healthy most of the time, but a few problems do come back regularly in our gardens. Powdery mildew can appear in hot, humid summers, showing up as a white felting on young leaves, with no real harm to the hedge. Thrips and scale insects sometimes settle on the branches, especially on hedges stressed by drought or planted too far into the shade.

The real threat to watch for is the privet moth, whose caterpillars devour the foliage and can strip entire stretches of hedge bare within weeks, particularly since it has spread further across Belgium in recent years. Check the foliage in summer and step in as soon as you notice holes or fine silky webbing.

Propagation

Taking cuttings is the simplest and most widely used way to propagate privet, which explains why it is so cheap at the garden centre. Take semi-ripe cuttings about twenty centimetres long in late summer, strip the lower leaves, plant them straight into open ground or a nursery bed: they root without much trouble, often even without rooting hormone.

Planting bare-root stock remains the most economical way to put up a full hedge: bought in bundles over winter, these young plants cost a fraction of the price of container-grown ones and establish very well between November and March, outside of frosty spells.

Toxicity

Privet is toxic. Its black berries, which appear in late summer and hang on through part of the autumn, contain irritant glycosides that cause nausea, vomiting and stomach pain if eaten, in children just as in dogs or cats. The leaves are toxic too, though to a lesser degree. If you have young children or pets that roam the garden, keep an eye on the hedge as autumn approaches and avoid letting fallen berries linger on the ground.

Local know-how

In Belgium (Herve climate, zone 8a)

In Herve, zone 8a, California privet is the classic screening hedge: cheap, tough as nails and quick to grow, it turns a bare garden into a private space within two or three seasons. Reckon on three to four plants per linear metre for a hedge that is already dense from the start. It shrugs off the plateau’s poor, chalky soils, the partial shade of a shaded back garden and even the pollution of a hedge planted along a road. In our climate it stays semi-evergreen, keeping its green through much of a mild winter before dropping its leaves in hard frost and coming back without trouble in spring. In June and July it covers itself in small, strongly scented white flowers that bees love, followed by black berries in autumn. One thing worth knowing: like any dense, fast-growing hedge, privet draws heavily on the nitrogen in the soil at its base, which is why nothing much grows right underneath it. Do not plan a flower bed there, and instead give neighbouring plantings a bit of compost if they look a little starved.

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Month-by-month care calendar

JanuaryComplete rest for the hedge. This is the best time to plant bare-root stock, frost permitting, taking advantage of the low prices on bundles of young plants.
FebruaryKeep planting bare-root stock as long as the ground is not frozen. This is one of the last windows before growth wakes up.
MarchSap is rising again, a last chance to plant before budburst. On an established hedge, a light tidying trim is possible.
AprilFoliage comes back with real vigour, especially after a cold winter that stripped the leaves. Keep an eye on watering for this year’s new plantings.
MayFirst shaping cut at the end of the month, once the new growth has firmed up a little. This is also a good time for taking softwood cuttings.
JuneFragrant white flowers appear, much visited by bees. Growth peaks and the hedge can put on several centimetres a week.
JulySecond trim if growth is still strong. In hot, dry spells, water any hedge planted less than two years ago.
AugustTake semi-ripe cuttings towards the end of the month. Check the foliage for signs of the privet moth.
SeptemberLast trim of the year so the hedge goes into autumn neat and tidy. Black berries begin to ripen.
OctoberGrowth slows down noticeably. A good time to plant new container-grown stock before the real cold arrives.
NovemberThe bare-root planting season opens, the cheapest way to put up a whole hedge. Foliage yellows and drops if the cold sets in.
DecemberThe hedge drops some or all of its leaves in frosty weather, normal behaviour for this semi-evergreen shrub. Keep planting bare-root stock outside of frosty spells.

Green Hub tips

  • Plant bare-root between November and March: it is the cheapest option and privet establishes without trouble, unlike fussier hedging plants.
  • Do not panic if the hedge drops its leaves in a hard winter, that is normal behaviour for a semi-evergreen hedge: it comes back in spring.
  • Prune wider at the bottom and narrower at the top so light reaches the base and the hedge stays leafy right down to the ground.
  • Never plant a flower bed right at the foot of a privet hedge: it draws off all the available nitrogen and nothing grows well there.