Chinese money plant

Pilea peperomioides

HouseplantsFamily: Urticaceae (Urticacées)Difficulty: Easy

The Pilea (Pilea peperomioides) is an easy houseplant, recognisable by its round, fleshy leaves that look like little coins. Here it is grown only indoors: it does not tolerate frost and spends the whole year in the house. Its great asset is that it multiplies all by itself, producing offsets at the base and along the stem.

Light and exposure

The Pilea likes bright but filtered light. Place it near an east-facing window or a few metres from a south-facing bay behind a sheer curtain. The direct summer sun scorches its leaves, while a corner that is too dark makes it lose its compact shape and stretch towards the glass.

It always grows towards the light. A quarter turn every eight to ten days is enough to keep a regular, upright rosette, otherwise it quickly leans to one side.

Watering

Moderate watering is the rule. Let the top two centimetres of the potting mix dry out before giving water again, then water letting the excess drain away. Always empty the saucer: the Pilea fears too much water far more than thirst.

Leaves that yellow and soften at the base almost always betray one watering too many and the start of root rot. Foliage drooping over dry potting mix, on the contrary, means it is thirsty. In winter, space out clearly, one watering every ten to fifteen days is enough.

Soil and repotting

A light, free-draining potting mix suits it. Take a mix for houseplants and lighten it with a handful of perlite or coarse sand so the water passes through quickly. A pot with drainage holes is essential, standing water at the bottom is its worst enemy.

Repot in spring, every one to two years, into a pot only slightly larger. No need to drown it in a large volume. Take advantage of repotting to detach the well-rooted babies growing at the base.

Temperature and humidity

The Pilea is happy at normal indoor temperature, between 15 and 24 degrees. It tolerates a little coolness in winter but does not go below 10 degrees, and it freezes well before zero. Keep it away from a radiator as well as from a cold draught near a door.

It is not demanding about humidity and copes with the dry air of our heated homes, unlike many tropical plants. If the leaf tips brown in winter, move it away from the heat source.

Pruning and upkeep

The Pilea needs almost no pruning. Remove the old yellowed lower leaves as you go, by hand or with clean scissors. A wipe with a damp cloth now and then restores their shine.

If the main stem goes bare and stretches with age, you can cut it back firmly: the stump reshoots into new growth, and the cut top can be rooted. The offsets at the base thicken the pot if you leave them in place.

Pests and diseases

Indoors, the Pilea mainly picks up troubles linked to too much water. Root rot, encouraged by a waterlogged potting mix and a saucer that is never emptied, is by far its number one cause of death: brown, soft roots, leaves falling all at once. It is prevented by measured watering and real drainage.

As for pests, watch for mealybugs, those cottony clusters in the hollow of the leaf stalks, and spider mites which settle in when the air is dry near the heating. A cotton bud soaked in methylated spirit deals with them while the attack is limited.

Propagation

This is the great pleasure of the Pilea, and its big asset. It spontaneously produces offsets, small identical plants, at the base of the mother stem and sometimes along it. Wait for an offset from the soil to reach five to seven centimetres, clear away the potting mix, cut it off close while keeping its roots and repot it straight away in a small pot. It starts off on its own.

The offsets growing on the stem, without roots, are treated as cuttings: in a glass of water, they root in two to three weeks before repotting. A single healthy Pilea provides enough to give away plants all year round, which earned it its nickname of missionary plant.

Verified answers

Checked on 2026-07-23

Where should a Chinese money plant sit indoors?

Near a bright window, away from scorching summer sun. Rotate the pot regularly and leave a gap from cold glass in winter.

When should it be watered?

When the top two centimetres of potting mix are dry. Water thoroughly, let it drain and empty the saucer; do not follow a fixed weekday.

Why are its leaves turning yellow?

First check for potting mix that stays wet too long and for standing water. A single old lower leaf can also yellow naturally.

Is Pilea toxic to cats and dogs?

The ASPCA lists it as non-toxic to cats and dogs. Non-toxic does not mean edible: chewing a large amount of any plant may still upset digestion.

Editorial method

This sheet cross-checks IPNI nomenclature, NC State Extension horticultural guidance and the ASPCA veterinary database. Watering advice remains based on the actual condition of the potting mix: a calendar interval is only a guide, never an automatic instruction.

Local know-how

In Belgium (Herve climate, zone 8a)

In Belgium, the Pilea is a strictly indoor plant. It never overwinters outdoors and cannot even be put out on the terrace without risk, one cool night is enough to mark it. It is kept in the house all year round, on a bright windowsill.

The real challenge here is winter. From November to February, the light is weak and short: move the Pilea closer to the brightest window, even pressed against the glass, and cut back watering sharply since it grows slowly. It is in this season that too much water does the most damage, in a potting mix that dries slowly.

Its growing season runs from April to September, when the days lengthen. That is when it produces its offsets in abundance and when it needs a little feeding and repotting. Remember to turn the pot all year round: our windows only light from one side, and without this gesture the plant ends up all lopsided.

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Month-by-month care calendar

JanuaryRest. Weak light: keep it against the brightest window. Water little, once every ten to fifteen days.
FebruaryStill slow. Turn the pot a quarter turn each week to stop it leaning. No fertiliser.
MarchLight returns, growth picks up. Resume more regular watering as soon as the potting mix dries faster.
AprilStart of the real season. Repot if the roots are circling in the pot, detach the already rooted offsets. First dose of light fertiliser.
MayFull growth. The offsets multiply at the base and on the stem. Water as soon as the surface dries, diluted fertiliser every fortnight.
JuneAbundant foliage. Keep turning the pot. Pot up the harvested babies in small pots, they start off quickly.
JulyWatch the direct sun behind the glass that scorches the leaves: move it away a little or add a sheer curtain. Water without soaking.
AugustStill growing. A good month to root the stem offsets in a glass of water. Keep up the light feeding.
SeptemberLast active month. Slow down the feeding. Sort the old lower leaves and harvest the last well-formed offsets.
OctoberGrowth stops. Move the plant closer to the window and reduce watering as the days shorten.
NovemberWinter rest. Minimal watering, never water standing in the saucer. Keep it away from the radiator.
DecemberLight at its lowest. Do not put it in a dark corner. Let it dry well between two waterings, no fertiliser.

Green Hub tips

  • Turn the pot a quarter turn each week. Without this gesture, the Pilea quickly leans towards the window and grows crooked.
  • Let the base offsets grow to five centimetres, then detach them with their roots and repot: a Pilea to give to each friend.
  • In winter, the danger is watering. Dry potting mix, emptied saucer, spaced-out waterings: it is too much water that kills the Pilea, not thirst.
  • The ASPCA lists it as non-toxic to cats and dogs. Like any plant material, however, it may still cause digestive discomfort if a large amount is chewed.

Botanical sources